The different faces of Lygon Street

Lygon St has perhaps the most renowned culinary identity of any of the foodscapes of Melbourne, if not Australia. It is a famously Italian migratory community which has developed its own culture distinct from that of its early pioneers’ motherland – Italy. Personally I have grown up on stories from my parents’ generation of the way it embodies Carlton’s lively culture and of the beautiful ‘authentic’ Italian food.

Our site visit aimed to interrogate this idea of perceived authenticity, and the different ways it is packaged to consumers and as part of the area’s local identity. We began by exploring the self-proclaimed “French Groumet Deli – La Parisienne Pâtés” – which modeled on a French charcuterie. The French venue stood out among its Italian neighbours but we were intrigued by the explicit promise of authenticity from the moment you walk in. We found that the consistent promise of authentic French meals and items on the menu and in the ambiance of the venue (the music and decor especially, which gave a sense of clichéd French culture), highlighted to us the sense of the paradox of authenticity – it felt contrived and to degree an excuse to increase the price of their food.

By contrast, the restaurant DOC, despite its clear Italian influence, did not explicitly identify itself as an authentic Italian restaurant, but encouraged patrons to “practise their Italian” with the staff. This was combined with a primarily Italian menu and Italian-speaking patrons, contributing to a jovial atmosphere that felt like a true celebration – rather than attempted imitation – of its heritage, and thus more of an experience of real Italy than La Parisienne’s self-proclaimed authentic experience.